In repeat blooming varieties - the main flush of bloom in early summer is followed by a second flush in autumn. The quality of the second flush depends on maintaining growth after the first flush.
After the first flush, feed with rose fertiliser.
Dead-head as much as possible - sometimes not easy with large plants!
Give plenty of water during periods of extreme heat or drought.
Pruning Climbing Roses there's no
mystery in pruning climbers, just keep it simple.
Prune in late winter.
Cut out any dead, dying, damaged or exhausted branches.
Tie-in any branches that can be trained to shape.
Flex, bend or spiral them whenever possible.
Snip off the tips of long branches.
Shorten all lateral stems as a guide by 30%
Training Climbing Roses tips to increase the flowering of Climbing Roses
When tying in the long branches, flex and bend them as much as possible.
Flexed branches often produce more flowering laterals.
Growth trained horizontally or at an angle may bear more flowers than growth trained vertically.
For wall or trellis-trained climbers, flex the branches by fanning into tiers of growth.
For posts and pillars flexing may be achieved by training in spirals.
Post & Wire - a quick and easy way to support climbers
Plant the rose in its position, drive in two posts one on each side.
Posts at least 2m apart and 1.5m high: wider or taller according to vigour of the rose.
Run two or more strands of wire at different heights between the posts.
Guide the rose into a fan shape that fills the space, secure in place with string.
Use string attached to the tips of branches to strain them towards the posts