Climbing Roses | Harkness Roses

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Climbing Roses
| Frequently Asked Questions

The main aim of pruning is to keep the plant healthy, encourage plenty of flowering shoots, and stop it becoming a tangle of old woody stems. Start by removing any dead, damaged, or weak growth. Then look for the main framework stems, these are the strong, long stems that form the permanent structure of the plant. These usually stay in place. The side shoots that grow from them are the ones to shorten back, usually to around 2 to 4 buds from the main stem. If the rose is very old or congested, a few of the oldest stems can be removed at the base over time to make room for fresh new growth. It is better to do this gradually rather than hacking everything back at once. The key thing with climbing roses is not to treat them like bush roses. If you cut all the long stems down hard every year, you will lose much of the flowering potential.

The main pruning time for climbing roses is usually late winter to early spring, around February to March in most parts of the UK, just before strong new growth begins. That said, timing can vary slightly depending on the weather and the age of the plant. If the rose is still very young, the first couple of years are more about training and shaping than heavy pruning. There is also often a bit of light tidying to do in summer. After flowering, it is useful to remove faded blooms and tie in any new long shoots where they are needed. That helps keep the plant neat and improves the display the following year.

They like a sunny position, fertile soil, and something sturdy to grow against. With the right start, they will give years of colour and structure. They perform best in a spot with at least a few hours of direct sun each day, ideally more. Good air movement is helpful too, as it keeps foliage healthier. The soil should be well drained but not bone dry, and enriched with plenty of organic matter before planting. Feed them in spring with a good rose fertiliser, such as our Ultimate Rose 'Bloom-Booster' Complete Fertiliser, water well during dry spells, and mulch annually to lock in moisture and improve the soil. As they grow, tie in the long stems rather than leaving them to flop about.

Planting a climbing rose properly gives it the best possible start. Dig a generous hole and improve the soil with well-rotted compost or organic matter. If the rose is going against a wall or fence, avoid planting it right up against the base, as the soil there is often dry. A good rule is to plant it around 30 to 45cm away from the wall or fence, then angle the stems slightly towards the support. This allows the roots to sit in better soil while the top growth still reaches the structure easily. Set the plant so it sits at the same depth it was growing in the supplied nursery pot, or with the graft just below soil level if needed. Firm it in well, water thoroughly, and keep it well watered while it settles in.

Left alone, a climbing rose may produce a few flowers high up and not much else. Trained properly, it becomes covered in blooms from much lower down. The trick is to guide the main stems as horizontally as possible, or at least in wide, fan-shaped angles. When stems are tied in more horizontally, they produce more flowering side shoots along their length. If they are left growing straight upwards, the flowers tend to be concentrated near the top. Use soft ties and secure the stems gently to wires, trellis, or another support. Keep checking through the growing season so new shoots can be tied in before they become stiff and awkward.

Yes, climbing roses can be grown in a pot, and some varieties do very well that way, especially on patios, terraces, or in smaller gardens. The important thing is to use a large enough container. Choose a deep, sturdy pot with good drainage, and fill it with a quality compost. A rose in a pot will need more regular watering and feeding than one planted in the ground, especially through summer. It will also need a support such as an obelisk, trellis, or wall behind it. Not every climbing rose is ideal for container growing. More compact or moderately vigorous varieties are usually the easiest to manage. Very large, powerful climbers are generally better in open ground.

A climbing rose should not be expected to cling to a wall by itself. Unlike ivy, it needs help. The best way is to fix horizontal wires across the wall, spaced roughly 30 to 45cm apart. These can then be used to tie in the stems as the plant grows. You can also use a trellis, but wires are often neater and give more flexibility. Once the support is in place, fan the stems out and tie them in securely with soft garden ties. Try not to bunch all the stems together, as spreading them out improves both flowering and airflow. It is worth making sure there is a small gap between the support system and the wall, so air can move behind the plant and the stems are easier to tie in.

The easiest climbing roses are usually the healthy, reliable, repeat-flowering varieties that are not too fussy about conditions. In general, modern climbing roses tend to be easier than older, more temperamental types. A good easy climber is one that has strong disease resistance, repeat flowers well, and responds nicely to training. Many gardeners also find that vigorous rambling types can grow strongly, but they are not always the easiest to manage because they can get very large very quickly. So, the easiest climbing rose is not necessarily the fastest grower. It is the one that combines strong performance, manageable growth, and dependable flowering.

The best place to plant a climbing rose is in a sunny, open spot with fertile, well-drained soil and a sturdy support nearby. A south- or west-facing position is often ideal, though many varieties will still do well with a little less sun. Avoid very dry positions right beneath walls with no soil improvement, and avoid cramped corners with poor air circulation. Roses like sunlight, but they also benefit from having their roots in cool, moisture-retentive soil. If planting against a wall, remember not to cram the rose right at the base. Give it a bit of space from the wall, improve the soil well, and train it in properly from the start. That gives the best chance of strong growth and a much better floral display.

More About Climbing Roses

Choosing the Right Climbing Rose

The best climbing roses are not simply the tallest. The right choice depends on the space, the support and the effect required. Some gardeners want soft, elegant coverage with blush or white blooms, which is why Climbing 'Iceberg' and Climbing Rose 'New Dawn' remain enduring favourites. Others prefer stronger colour, richer scent or a more dramatic finish, making varieties such as 'Compassion', 'Arthur Bell' or 'Dublin Bay' especially appealing.

Scent is often part of the decision too, with some of the finest fragrant climbing roses offering the extra pleasure of perfume near a doorway, seating area or path. If the aim is to fill the garden with fragrance as well as colour, it is well worth exploring climbing roses with scent alongside flower colour and habit.

It also helps to understand the difference between climbing and rambling roses. Climbing roses usually produce larger flowers, a more restrained framework and, importantly, repeat flowering through the season. Ramblers are generally more vigorous, looser in habit and often flower in one main flush.

Growing Climbing Roses with Confidence

Growing climbing roses is far more straightforward than many expect. They are not true rose vines that cling for themselves, so they do need tying in to a suitable climbing rose support. Once guided properly, they are remarkably rewarding plants. A wall with wires, a pillar, an obelisk, a pergola or climbing roses trellis framework will all work well, provided the structure is strong enough to carry the weight of the eventual mature growth.

Planting a climbing rose bush well is the key to long-term success. Choose fertile, well-drained soil and a position with good light. When planting near a wall, leave enough space from the base so roots do not sit in dry ground directly beneath the overhang.

For patios and courtyards, potted climbing roses can be a very good option. Climbing roses need large pots, good compost, steady watering and regular feeding.

Popular Climbing Roses and Garden Uses

Certain varieties remain favourites for good reason. 'Iceberg' climbing roses are valued for their fresh, bright flowers, healthy growth and long season of bloom.

'New Dawn' is another classic climbing rose, loved for its soft pink flowers and graceful growth. 'Compassion' is widely admired for combining strong scent with rich colouring, while 'Dublin Bay' rose is prized for its bold, velvety blooms. 'Arthur Bell' boasts warm golden tones and real brightness in the landscape. 'Open Arms', meanwhile, offers a lighter, freer style that suits informal plantings well.

Buying Climbing Roses Online

You can compare colour, scent, vigour and flowering habit by shopping climbing roses online - find the right rose for the job! This also opens up access to a stronger range of climbing rose bushes than what you will find locally.

Harkness Roses offers climbing roses that suit both classic and contemporary gardens, from elegant white favourites to deeply coloured, fragrant performers. Whether the goal is to frame a rose archway, cover a rose bush trellis, fill a large border with vertical flower, or buy climbing roses for the patio, these remain one of the finest ways to add structure, softness and lasting beauty to a garden.

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